THE TASTE OF GOS-PUPS AND THE ROTIWALA 

- from Fading Snapshots of Kalimpong

by K Guliyo

Fond memories of the hills are never complete without a mention of the humble Rotiwala. The contents of his box, with Gos-pup the bestseller, have charmed the hearts and tummies of so many people.

A picture shown below is from a film taken in Kalimpong in 1957 by Mr Watson Kintner in a non-audio 30mm camera. It shows a Rotiwala among Tibetan traders in a mule camp. The alien Rotiwala has, over the years, earned an endearing place in hill folklore.

The drab tin box balanced on the head of the Rotiwala, was taken precariously down steep winding pathways and distant village roads. In Kalimpong the Rotiwalas went as far as Algarah, Relli, Chitrey, Chhibo, Bom, Durpin. Sandalled feet with kurta, and with pyjamas or lungi, and a feta (turban) with a long tail at the back was the signature turnout of these hardworking, cheerful characters. It was walking by foot all the way. No cars then. A big black umbrella was a help in the sun, the rain and a protection from dogs.

Gos- pup, the star celebrity inside the box is a triangular patty. Inside the crisp shell is an enticing pinch of minced meat hidden among bold fleshy pieces of onion. The crackling outer shell was savoured and chewed with the certainty that the meat pieces would come under the bite, sooner or later. Oftentimes the eyelids closed as the heavenly taste spread in the mouth. The initial slow munching invariably turned into a frantic gobbling as the body wanted more of this sublime food.

The upper compartment of the tin box was divided into several square sections. There was also a similar looking product which had sugary taste, known as CHINI-PUP. Then there was the NARIYEL-PUP with coconut inside. KHURMA, small sweet fried balls were served in fours or twos, on a piece of torn newspaper. The heart-shaped, yellowish QUEEN CAKE was soft and sweet. In the huge bottom compartment were the LOAVES with brown, curved, bloated humps. BUNS were also among the loaves. The prized presence in the lower compartment were CAKES – brown, with black “kissmiss” visible, and the round discs encased in half burnt paper. There was also the soft, yellowish, heart shaped QUEEN CAKES.

One of the bakeries was at Tirpai. This crude factory was near the shade of a huge bar-peepul tree. Huge stacks of firewood and “patthar koyla” (coal), kept the huge flames alive inside a ramshackle hut. From the “bhhatti” inside this humble hut, delicacies emerged that titillated numerous mouths in many valleys and meadows.

Even the most ferocious dogs in the villages gave a joyous welcome to the Rotiwala, flattening their ears and vigorously wagging not only tails but their entire hips !

Strategic selling points were located at discreet corners around all the big Schools. The Principals pretended not to know about these sales outlets – they were after all, not so silent admirers of the queen cakes and gos-pups.

Hill people give interesting names. One Rotiwala baajey in the 8th Mile area had the affectionate name " Grandpa”. The one who came to our village had earrings and his name was "Kundaley". The one who serves the SUMI School area even today is called, for obvious reasons, "Handsome" ! (see Picture !).

Social interaction was the pleasing fallout to the ritual of hogging up the tasty items. Much hello-ing, catch–upping, and time passing, were done around the Rotiwala’s box which was parked in a patch of cosy greenery overlooking huge mountain valleys.

Eating on credit, that is, having a “baakee,” was common among boys ( - girls too, I learnt later !) . It involved great fun in leg pulling and in jokes of divulging this fact to the debtor’s parents or girlfriend !

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Picture one –
In the SUMI compound, the famous Rotiwala known as HANDSOME
Picture two –
Handsome's delicacies !
Picture three -
This is from a film taken in Kalimpong in 1957 by Mr Watson Kintner in a non-audio 30mm camera.
It shows a Rotiwala among Tibetan traders in a mule camp.
( from the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology in the University of Pennsylvania. )
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